Raising Backyard Chickens for Beginners: A First-Year Guide
Share
Livestock · Beginner Guide · 12 min read
Raising backyard chickens comes down to four things: a dry, predator-proof coop with about 4 square feet per bird, clean water and the right feed, protection from the animals that want to eat them, and a few minutes of attention morning and evening. Start with three to six hens of a hardy breed, and you'll be collecting your own eggs within about five months — or in a week or two if you start with grown hens instead of chicks.

What you'll need to start
- A coop — roughly 4 sq ft of floor per hen, plus a nesting box for every 3–4 birds and a roosting bar
- A run or fenced area — 8–10 sq ft per hen if they can't free-range
- A waterer and feeder — hanging types stay cleaner than dishes ($15–30 each)
- Feed — chick starter for the young, layer feed (16% protein) once they begin laying
- Bedding — pine shavings or straw for the coop floor and boxes
- 3–6 hens — chicks are cheap ($3–5) but need 5 months; started pullets cost more but lay sooner
Step 1: Set up the coop before the birds arrive

Get the coop finished and standing before you bring birds home. It needs three things above all: it must stay dry, it must have ventilation up high (damp air causes far more winter losses than cold does), and it must be predator-proof — which means hardware cloth, not chicken wire, over every opening, and a latch a raccoon can't work. Add a roosting bar higher than the nesting boxes so the birds sleep on the bar instead of fouling the nests, and one box per three to four hens.
Step 2: Bring the birds home and settle them
If you start with chicks, they live indoors under a heat lamp in a brooder at 95°F for the first week, dropping 5°F a week until they're feathered at around six weeks. If you start with grown pullets — the easier path for most beginners — they go straight into the coop. Keep new birds shut inside the coop (not the run) for two or three days so they learn it's home; after that they'll put themselves to bed there every night for the rest of their lives.
Step 3: Feed and water them right
Chickens need constant access to clean water — a hen drinks about half a liter a day, more in heat, and egg production drops the moment water runs short. For feed, use chick starter until roughly 18 weeks, then switch to a 16% protein layer feed. Offer crushed oyster shell in a separate dish for shell strength, and a little grit if they don't free-range on soil. Kitchen scraps and garden greens are fine as treats, but keep them under about 10% of the diet or laying suffers.
Building your own coop?
Skip the guesswork and the wasted lumber. The 257 Self-Reliant Homestead Blueprints collection includes multiple coop designs — from a weekend 4×8 to a walk-in with an attached run — each with full cut lists and a step-by-step build order. One-time $47.
See the Coop Plans →Step 4: The daily and weekly rhythm
The daily work is genuinely small: in the morning, open the coop, check water and feed, and let them out. In the evening, collect eggs and shut the door once they've roosted — that closed door is what keeps them alive against night predators. Once a week, refresh bedding and scrape the droppings board. A few times a year, do a deep clean. That's the whole job. Hens start laying around 18–22 weeks and give you their best production for the first two or three years.
Common beginner mistakes (and how to avoid them)
- Using chicken wire for security. It keeps chickens in but not predators out. Raccoons reach through and rip. Use hardware cloth.
- Too little ventilation. Sealing the coop "to keep them warm" traps moisture and causes frostbite and respiratory illness. Vent high, above their heads.
- Leaving the pop door open at night. The single most common cause of a wiped-out flock. Shut it every evening — or fit an automatic door.
- Starting with too many, or with a rooster. Three to six hens is plenty to learn on, and you don't need a rooster for eggs — only for chicks.
Free: 3 Forgotten Skills Every Homestead Runs On
Cold-storage without a fridge, cast-iron restoration, and the 10-minute tool edge. One useful letter a week — no spam, ever.
Send Me the GuideFrequently asked questions
How many chickens should a beginner start with?
Three to six hens. That gives a family a steady supply of eggs, keeps feed costs low while you learn, and is small enough to manage easily. Chickens are flock animals, so never keep fewer than three.
Do you need a rooster to get eggs?
No. Hens lay eggs with or without a rooster — you only need one if you want fertilized eggs to hatch chicks. Many towns ban roosters for noise, so most backyard flocks are hens only.
How much does it cost to keep backyard chickens?
After the one-time coop, expect roughly $15–25 a month in feed for a small flock, less if they free-range. A hen costs a few dollars as a chick. The eggs quickly offset the running cost.
How long until backyard chickens start laying eggs?
Most hens begin laying at 18 to 22 weeks old. If you start with chicks in spring, you'll have eggs by late summer or early fall. Started pullets lay within weeks of coming home.
Are backyard chickens hard to take care of?
No — they're the easiest livestock to keep. Daily care is a few minutes morning and evening, with a weekly clean-out. The main skill is consistency, especially shutting the coop every night against predators.
Eli Hartwell writes the Worth Honoring journal — plans, skills, and the kind of know-how that used to pass from one generation to the next. When he's not writing, he's fixing something that didn't need to break.